Chinatown Bangkok : Indulgent Breakfast to Late-Night Eats

Updated: Apr 7, 2019

Samphanthawong, Bangkok, Thailand, December, 2018 – Established in the 1780’s by Chinese merchants, an old area of Bangkok. And considered to be one of the most ancient Chinatown in the world. Consisted of Yaowarat road(耀華力路), the artery of Chinatown, and Charoen Krung road (石龍軍路). Lined with traditional Chinese pharmacies, gold shops, bird’s nest soup, has become an ideal destination for locals and tourists to enjoy late-night eats and shopping. Near the Chinatown, the old district embraces the local and tourists with old-school cafes. You are able to run away from the bustling city, and enjoy the irresistible kaya toast in the family-style cafés operated in the historical residence.

Traveling Back in Time at Old-School Cafe On Lok Yun(安樂園)

This old-school style breakfast shop looks like Hong Kong tea restaurant. It is said run by Thai-Chinese man in 1933, and now is operated by the second generation. The 80 year-old café serves Thai-style American breakfast includes scrambled or fried eggs, sausage and ham. However their classic dish is kaya toast, consists of tender toast and a plate of kaya sauce. Other recommended dishes are toast with cow butter and French toast. Beverage includes Thai milk tea, Thai milo, ice tea, and coffee. But if you order sweet breakfast, such as kaya toast, I recommend you choose black coffee that can balance the sugar. Even though the business is booming every day, the employees of the breakfast shop do not push me to finish the meal. I saw some families enjoy their breakfast and be chilled at reading newspaper, too.

Location: 72 Charoen Krung Rd, Khwaeng Wang Burapha Phirom, Khet Phra Nakhon, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10200, Thailand

Hours: Daily from 05:30 AM - 4:00 PM

Nam Heng Li (南興利) Interprets Simple is the Best

Unlike On Lok Yun, Nam Heng Li is a small breakfast shop, which can only accommodate 4-5 tables. Menu listed simple but the best breakfast: kaya toast, boiled egg, poached egg, Tai tea and o-lian (black coffee). Located in the old district in Bangkok, the tranquil atmosphere, minimalism-style furniture with round-marble table and old bentwood chairs now becomes the photo shooting hot spot on Instagram. The words Nam Heng Li(南興利)written in Thai and Chinese at the lintel. The green door with yellow wall looks like Southeast Asian style(南洋風), and is an ideal place to have breakfast leisurely while watching the busy street. I was welcomed by an old lady with white cropped hair. She looks serious at the beginning, but when I started to take pictures of the breakfast shop, she was really kind to show that she could help me take pictures if I need. I had two dishes of kaya toast and one glass of o-lian actually, and when I checked, the meal is incredibly cheap. Nam Heng Li also has over 60-year history, it is said founded by a Hainanese Chinese immigrant, operated the breakfast shop then passed to his daughters.

Location: 212 Thanon Chakkraphatdi Phong, Wat Sommanat, Pom Prap Sattru Phai, Bangkok 10100, Thailand

Hours: Monday to Friday 6:00 AM-3:00 PM; Saturday to Sunday 6:00 AM - 2:00 PM

Pepper Roll Noodle Triggers the Appetite: Kuay Jab Uan Pochana

Kuay Jab Nam Sai is an iconic street gourmet filled with crispy pork, broth with white pepper and rolled-rice noodle. And this combination contributes to this interesting bowl. The crunchy pork is tasty, the rice roll noodle is chewy and the broth is light; however white pepper generates strong impact to your appetite in a smooth and comfortable way. If you are able to try organs, then Kuay jab tuk yang is recommended. It may include heart, liver, tongue…some slices of pig’s organ. Moreover, to seat in the street food stall, you can see movie posters on the mottled wall, enjoy your bowl and observe the busy night life in Chinatown. The unique and tasting soup allures people flock to have an irresistible bowl and slurp the hot pepper soup even it makes people sweat.